espresso

ITALIAN ESPRESSO MAKES BID TO BE RECOGNISED AS CULTURAL HERITAGE

Italy is seeking Unesco World cultural recognition for Italian espresso, according to The Guardian, a British newspaper. According to the report, 90% of Italians drink coffee daily – presumably that number only counts the adults. Still,  the number seemed a little high, but nevertheless, there is no arguing that the drink is a daily staple for millions of Italians.

Parts of the world are excited over the third wave coffee move and previously unexplored flavours that can be obtained from different varietals, fermentation techniques, and brewing methods. But, Italian espresso has remained steadfast and consistent with its own unique flavour, preparation and ritual, and this is what the country seeks to claim as a cultural and ritual heritage.

Anyone who has spent time in Italy, knows what to expect when they order an espresso. None of my Italian friends have told me they want to see the Italian espresso evolve into something new. Like a classic design, there is an elegance and beauty that doesn’t need reinventing.

This is what the Italian Department of Agriculture wants to see recognised as a symbol of Italian Culture and Heritage.  As the Italian Agriculture Undersecretary put it.

It is an authentic ritual and an expression of our sociality that distinguishes us around the world

Gian Marco Centinaio, Italian agriculture undersecretary

What separates an Italian espresso from any other? Most forums talk about Italians using a darker roast, or a majority Canephora (Robusta) blend to create their signature strong flavours. But this is an oversimplification, as each roaster will have their own blend, usually mixing Arabica from Brazil with Canephora – probably of Vietnamese origin, or from Uganda, or South-East Asia.

The new book, Coffee Experts, has a section written by Andrea Bazzara, Sales Export Manager for Bazzara, one of the original Italian coffee companies, in which he discusses the fact that Italy hasn’t experienced a specialty wave in the same way that some other countries have. Italian espresso is basically the same as it was 10 years ago, and I don’t see that as a problem.

For a technical definition of Italian espresso, we can look to the Italian Espresso Institute, which has positioned itself as a de facto judge of what standards the beverage has to meet, if it is to be called Italian espresso. Here is the definition of the requirements taken from their website.

On sight, a Certified Italian Espresso has a hazel-brown to dark – brown foam – characterised by tawny reflexes – with a very fine texture (absence of large mesh and larger or smaller bubbles). The nose reveals an intense scent with notes of flowers, fruits, toasted bread and chocolate. All of these sensations are felt also after swallowing the coffee in the long lasting aroma that remains for several seconds, sometimes even for minutes. Its taste in round, substantial and velvet-like. Sour and bitter tastes are well balanced and neither one prevails over the other. There is no, or a barely perceptible, astringent taste.

If you have not yet seen Unesco’s Cultural Heritage website, then it’s worth a look. The have made a fascinating interactive mindmap linking all the cultural heritage items in a network of related concepts. Under the coffee concept, there are currently only two cultural heritage items – Arabic Coffee, a Symbol of Generosity, and Turkish coffee culture and tradition. The Italians seem likely to add a third item to that map, the honourable Italian espresso.

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